Mexico – Of the beaten path for a 1001 coconut palms and no cash…
After being in Sayulita again I decided to hike through the jungle to the next town. After hiking and sweating for an hour I decided to take a break. While resting and enjoying the jungle two older gentlemen cross the track. We make some small talk. After they hear that I am going to San Pancho they suggest to take a left on the next cross-section and go away from the main track because the main track is just turning around. How handy!
I end up on this mountain bike track. In the end I made it to San Pancho beach. From there I have to cross a small river. I try to go bare feed afterwards which is a dumb idea since the sand is scorching hot. The waves are firing and I like the town more then Sayulita. More pro surfers ripping those crazy waves and doing airs I have only seen on youtube videos before.
I meat Sèan again for dinner. However I need to make a decision soon on where to go next. Travel directly to Puerto Escondido or seeing this small other town. Regarding this I have been very indecisive. I asked a lot of Mexicans and got very different reactions. The beach town is located at Michoacán. For anyone who doesn’t know why this state is very controversial here is the citation for traveling to Michoacán from the official website of the US government.
Michoacan state – Do Not Travel
Do not travel due to crime and kidnapping.
Crime and violence are widespread in Michoacán state.
US Government
Hmm this doesn’t sound to good to be honest. Some of the reactions from the locals were not encouraging either: “ARE YOU CRAZY?” “DON’T RISK YOUR LIFE!” but from all the surfers it was “Oh yeah it’s awesome. Definitely go. You are going to have a nice time.” So I decided to go anyways. Making my way down took me three days. From San Pancho I came down to Punta de Mita again. I visited the crocodile surf spot again and had one of my best surf sessions. From there I made my way down to Puerto Vallarta.
Puerto Vallarta had some huge beautiful sights I didn’t expect. Like the Zona Romantica. I hiked up there although I was a little sick to enjoy the sunset. The next day I take a 7 hour bus ride to Manzanillo. This is a less touristy place as I can directly see reflecting in the prices. Here I end up in an Airbnb that is also a popular local restaurant with the best burgers and chicken wings in town. The next day I take another 3 hour bus ride to my destination. Being the only tourist in the whole bus makes me feel a little weird. as we approach the State Michoacán I thought the bus would be completely empty. Boy was I wrong there were more people tagging along then there were seats and the bus was completely full even in the aisle.
I arrive to the sunset and feel a little bit lost and don’t know what to think. Now I only have to walk for half an hour to the village and I finally made it. We will see if this was worth traveling 3 days for as this is totally of the beaten path! There isn’t even cell phone service. As I walk this small road towards the village I am greeted by 1000 Banana Trees and 1001 coconut trees. After arriving and finding a place for my hammock I can admire the place.
There are these small houses with palm branches on the roof which you can rent or you just put up a hammock at one of the many camping spots. There are surf boards lying everywhere and everyone is super nice. I meet Tom in his bus. He made a full on Goa and Trance Studio out of this old school bus.
He proceeds to tell me that he is throwing a rave at the beach later and I should come join. Which I did. Three DJ’s rocking the turntables over the night. All out of his bus directly at the beach. Now that is what I call passion and commitment for a party. I don’t have enough cash so I ask around on where to find the next ATM. From most people I just get weird looks. I get told by the people that the next ATM is a mere 45 minute drive away. FUCK! What do I do? Something to worry about the next day…
As the next day approaches I try to figure out how to get some cash. After talking to almost 50 people I found a person who is willing to drive me for a fee of course. So as we embark to the first place it has no cash. The driver seems a little pissed and says I need a beer. Do you want one as well? As I’m angry myself I agree. He proceeds to stop in one shop and gets two beers. He’s driving while drinking his beer. After a while he says the same thing and we stop for another one. We arrive at the ATM and then drive back where the same procedure happens. Since I am already a little tipsy and get headache from not drinking enough water beforehand I decline on the third and forth one as we cruise back to the small town. Hey I am liquid again for the mere price of 40€ for the driver and a three and half hour journey… Imagine going through this every time.
The rest of the time I just spent surfing two times a day truly admiring this place. It is deep tugged away behind the mountains connected to a clear river totally of the beaten path. The birds, the wind and waves are singing you to sleep while one person silently plays on his ukulele and you drift of into the dream world. It’s great! The people are very friendly and always helpful. So I encourage you to stop labeling people as criminals just because the state is controlled by drug traffickers. The people are just normal people who live in this conditions. They still care, are honest and hard working. So if you look past the label you just see humans like you and me. Only difference is their circumstances.
Until next time!
One thought on “Mexico – Of the beaten path for a 1001 coconut palms and no cash…”
take care <3