So after enjoying the beach we wanted to go to Lake Atitlan. For this we took a shuttle. The shuttle picked us up and we went on. Only problem it went into the wrong direction, or at least I thought. We where heading towards a river. As we didn’t know what was happening the little minivan got on to a boat. Here the boat took a shortcut through a mangrove forest to the next road. What a fun little shortcut.

From here it was a curvy road from sea level to around 1500 meters to Lake Atitlan to the city of Panachachel to be more precise. Here we spend a night and find the Crossroads Café. This is the first coffeeshop in Guatemala and has a lovely picture book explaining the story. Basically a couple from California set out to pursue their dreams. To build a complete coffee place in Guatemala. So they tell the stories of Goodbyes as their adventure begins. They travel down with van. Once they arrived, they transformed an old basement into the coffee shop. They brought the coffee machines and started to sort out their own coffee and even roast it. Quite an inspirational story. They are retired in South Africa right now but the place is still vividly living on and I am sure their story will also live on a long time.

From there we set out to explore the little towns located on the lake. We started in Panachachel and the weather was cloudy which gave this place a mystic feeling. Now tell me does this look like Norway or Guatemala? Yes it’s Guatemala because the sun is shining!

The next day is nice and clear and you can take a boat for 25GTQ ~ 3€, which we did to Santa Cruz La Laguna. We got to the pier and they were placing our backpacks on top of the boat. Only problem the roof of the boat didn’t have any rails on the side. So as the driver cranked down on the gas and the boat was turning left and right, only one thing occupied my mind. I just hoped and prayed that our backpacks were still there when we got to Santa Cruz La Laguna. It felt like an eternity as the water splashed at us and we were completely wet. Every turn felt like an eternity and every wave gave me more anxiety.

The only thing I cared for is that our god damn backpacks are still on the roof of this boat. After 15 agonizing minutes we made it. Or that’s what I thought. It was just the first pier of many. After 10 more minutes we finally get to get of. As the moment of truth comes I am just relieved. I never was so happy to see my red backpack! But the journey was worth it as the view is just totally breathtaking! The village itself is quite rural and has just a few tourists.

The next day we decide to do a hike on the Lake Side. We heard about recent robberies at that hike. Since I don’t want to repeat my experience of Oaxaca we try to book a tour. The tour is totally overpriced at 450 GTQ ~ 60€ per person. Who is the robber in that part? So we decide against the tour and just go on our own. This one was the better decision because we can rest when we want, we can stop at different places where we want you get the idea. The hike is really stunning winding through the hills.

The hike is longer than we thought. At some part we read a sign and we couldn’t believe our eyes. The sign said Biergarten. We look at each other in disbelief. We check it out and it is actually a German place with German foods and beers. So I am super happy to just have such beer and rest. After a few more hours of hiking we reach the village of Tzununa. From here we take a Tuk-Tuk to San Marco. Did you know Guatemala imported Tuk-Tuks from Southeast-Asia in the 1980s to cope we the increased tourism? San Marco is supposed to be this place where a lot of hippies reside. Instead of hippies we found expensive stuff they want to sell, People that dressed ‘alternatively’ but in expensive clothes. If the bakery is called spiritual bakery you know you are in the wrong place… What is supposed to be spiritual about bread? A couple we met put it nicely. These are sons of bankers and business people who can wear their 200$ outfit and act all spiritual. That hits the nail on the head. So from here we take a boat back to Santa Cruz La Laguna. We are happy to be in this place and not the other. This time we were smarter with the backpacks as well!

From here we head back to Antigua. It is time to tackle the damn volcano. So we go back after a few miraculous days at the deepest lake of Central America. It is time for the hike. We rent sticks, jackets headlamps and beanies. And it is time to ascent. The base camp is located at 3800 meters. And the hike starts at 2800 meter. Sally hasn’t fully recovered yet so we are a little bit nervous about the altitude and the physical strain of the hike… As we ascent we first hike through a weird jungle.

As we are dusty, sweaty and burnt to a crisp by the sun it dawns on Sally what she has agreed to. This is no easy task. Especially in the altitude and in her condition but she keeps on fighting. Step by step we ascent higher and higher. The green jungle vanishes quickly and gives in to this barren landscape that are dispersed by pine trees. As the climate gets more dry so does the path get more difficult. Sandy slippery parts with pebbles on the way seem to be more frequent.

When we reach the base camp we just ascended a 1000 meters straight up. We are quite exhausted and get the first look at El Fuego the most active volcano of Guatemala. We feel the energy pretty quickly as we suddenly hear a thunder like sound. The earth starts to shake a little and the volcano erupts. What a miracle to whitness.

Wow this is really crazy. We rest the afternoon because for the sundowner we are going up the volcano. Yes you read that right. So basically we go 200 meters down again. to go 200 meters up in this super dry slippery hike. It is really exhausting. After climbing the last ledge for the sunset and constantly asking ourselves why we agreed to do this. But once up there above the clouds the doubts are forgotten immediately. You see the volcanoes and clouds as the sun goes down.

It got freezing cold in an instant and we had to switch from a t-shirt to three layers and a jacket. As the sun went down and it got dark the earth starts to shake below our feed. We hear a loud growl from the volcano. Then it a big cloud bursts from El Fuego. We are blown away by the force of nature that is playing right in front of our eyes. The volcano is actually spewing lava right before us.

I know, I know it is quite unbelievable. So here is a video from this experience. If I wouldn’t have seen this with my own eyes I wouldn’t believe myself either! Even the video hardly describes the real experience.

The only problem we didn’t think about. We had to get back to base camp. This means going down 200 meters in the dark and you guessed it going 200 meters back up… If you counted correctly that is approximately 1400 meters up and 400 meters down in one day… All of this in really slippery terrain where going down is more difficult than going up. Why were we doing this again? This question popped up in our heads again and again while we were trying to reach base camp again. After an exhilarating time we reach it around nine pm. What an experience! So we got a a hot chocolate and went straight to bed afterwards. In the morning there is just one last thing to do. Watch the sunrise and take a close look at the volcano one more time.

Once back down we said it was the best experience of the whole trip. While you’re on the hike you constantly ask yourself why you did this. Once when the exhaustion leaves left is the beautiful experience. I think it saved as a positive experience in the brain afterwards is because you really had to work for this. You had to actively do something and you can be proud of it afterwards. For reference we were on the smaller active volcano right at the ledge. Crazy right?

So from here we enjoy our last few days together. Have some craft beers and some really good coffee. Then it is time to say goodbye. With tears we stand at the airport. It is now clear that we won’t see each other for a long time probably. One last long hug and our ways depart again. I have to continue alone again which gives me this weird feeling. After having shared immense and crazy experiences for the last three and half weeks it is time to continue on my own. To find my rhythm again. You just feel incredibly vulnerable afterwards. Something time will heal as we get used to being apart again.

Until next time as I head into El Salvador!