After having a splendid time in La Libertad I start to check out other surf spots in that area. I also scorch for a surfboard that I can buy. After being in an empty beach with no surfboard it was the final draw for me to get one. I end up in the best hostel I have ever been in. You can watch the surf from the terrace or from your bed. Service is great and they do everything. First I didn’t like it because the contrast to living in the slums and living in this luxury place was just to high. A place tucked away in the cliffs with it’s own private beach access and infinity pool… It was a nice experience after getting acquainted to the place. It is great to see both worlds while most of the locals will probably not see much of this, while a lot travelers never see the other side either. It truly is a parallel universe.

So from here I venture to El Zonte a more known beach town to go surfing. You take the bus there or you hitchhike. First I was a little bit reluctant to hitchhike and I preferred to take the bus. However after waiting for 2 hours in rush hour as 5 full busses passed me that had no space even for one person got more open to the idea.

In the hostel I meet Florian. We go to EL Zonte again. We catch a bus because it just happened to drive past. This is by far the most worn down bus I have seen. You can see the street below your feed while the bus is loudly rattling through the coastal cliffs. Here is a short visualization of this experience.

We go surfing in El Zonte. The waves are good and there are two spots. One on the right side of the river is more beginner friendly. I surfed the left side the day before. Or at least I tried… I caught one wave and then spend a lot of time in what surfers call the washing machine. After 45 minutes I gave up and watched the pros again. So on the more beginner friendly part I at least caught more waves. Until a big set comes through and I am in the washing machine again. To top it off we decide to stay and watch the sunset. To our luck baby turtles get released as well. We enjoy our time and watch the turtles crawl over the sand slowly reaching the ocean. Two western women scream at the person that releases the turtles to stop touching them. Later I saw the pack sitting next to a turtle and tapping on the beach like the turtle is some kind of dog. I wonder what was worse for the turtles… The turtles made it to the ocean safely.

The person that took the eggs and hatched them probably knows more about the turtles than those two hysterical women. What a beautiful day. The locals having a stunning football match at the beach while sun starts to kiss the horizon. Colors of blue transform into yellow, orange and red as if the sky was a painting. The waves give it’s usual crushing sound and the locals cheer on in their football game.

Florian is out in the evening session. Since I have already been three times that day I pass and rest. I enjoy the sunset and my thoughts begin to wander. I start to wonder how we are going to get back, as I stood at the bus stop for three hours the last time. We try to find a taxi, but we couldn’t find a decent one. So we try the bus stop. Five people assure is that one final bus is still coming. It is supposed to come at 7 p.m. So we sit there and wait in the dark. We look at the winding road as far as we can. Every truck is getting our hopes up high only to leave us disappointed. The headlights of trucks luck similar to those of the chicken buses. Half an hour passes. Still no bus… The trucks drive past us with an incredible noise as they rattle highspeed through the road. The dust and dirt seems to always fly in our direction. Then finally a bus comes. We start to get in as the lady behind us assures us that this is the wrong bus. So close… Our hopes got crushed again… At some point after 45 minutes we give up. There is couple with a pickup truck getting some Pupusas, a local dish made out of a tortilla which is filled with cheese, beans and meat or everything mixed together. As we are getting desperate we ask them if we can get a ride. We can. So we order Pupusas as well and wait for them to finish.

By the way I think I had them every evening while being in EL Salvador. Apparently the current inflation is a big problem because the prices of Pupusas have risen over the past year. Almost 5% of the population or 300.000 people work in the Pupusa industry. As the poorest inhabitants of El Salvador cannot afford Pupusas anymore, it could lead to an economic crisis as it is a big part of their economy.

The moment we get to onto the pick up truck the actual bus comes around the corner. Talking about irony… It was only an hour late. Seems oddly familiar to the trains in Germany. We still go with the pick up truck. We cruise through the night with our newly acquired friends. They drop us off at the entry of the hostel. We wanted to ask the security guy if he could take some pictures. He as he was afraid something was happening had already his pump gun loaded and pointed at us. After short realization he put it down and gladly took a picture of us.

The next day I go to Atami. A different coastal town also in the area. We just get to the main street. Put out the thumb and after waiting 30 seconds a pick-up truck is pulling up and is taking us with him. Definitely faster than the bus. We just ignore the warning of the German government which says to never take hitchhikers in and to avoid hitchhiking at any cost.

On the pick up truck we meet two Italians that are going to El Cuco, a rural beach town in the south of El Salvador. I almost just went with them but decided to get dropped of in Atami nonetheless. It is close to El Tunco where I wanted buy a surfboard. After talking to some restaurants I can’t seem to find a fitting one for my level and my style. I start to doubt my decision to stay longer in this area. I almost gave up until I saw a restaurant that has three surfboards lying around. Impossible they sell these I think, but I ask anyway. They actually do! One even seems to fit my size and my level. My luck strikes again I guess! I can even test the board. I like it and I buy it for a good price. Only the fins were not included. These I buy in the next surf shop nearby. The fins were actually 60$. I didn’t expect them to be this expensive but it doesn’t matter I have a surfboard now!

I am really nervous on how to travel with this thing. So I enter the road again and want to start to hitchhike. My plan was to hitchhike a small part back to La Libertad. From there I wanted to take a bus to San Salvador and from there to take a different bus to San Miguel. However my booking didn’t go through in San Miguel. This is for a damn good reason. After I waited one minute with my thumbs at the street a pickup truck pulls up. Apparently he is driving like almost all the way to Usutlan. Perfect my luck seems to guide me through this. From there I take a bus to get of in EL Delirio and there I wait almost another minute until I get picked up by an Californian surfer couple. Without knowledge or a place to stay they just dropped me off where they told me it is the cheapest to stay. Jackpot! It couldn’t get any better than this. Located directly at the beach in my hammock for 5$. Time to put my newly acquired precious to the test. So in El Cuco I just surf my brains out for three and half days. Waves are good but the onshore wind picks up at around 9 a.m. So better make sure you get your first surf session done before. I watch every sunset and every sunrise at this beautiful beach. The beach is almost empty and I have it for myself. Except the families that live there.

The surfboard is smaller than what I was used to. In the beginning it was quite frustrating. As I surf more I seem to adapt to this. So after enjoying my time in El Salvador it is time to pack my things and head south to Nicaragua. Join me there on the next adventure as I go volcano boarding.

Until next time!